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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.